A Solo walk across Iceland
How to walk across Iceland?
I would say it is not as difficult as it seems to be. Before I
started I studied some maps, some document on the Internet, I red
book written by Ted Edwards - A Solo Walk Across the Iceland - and
finally I spent one evening talking to someone who comes from Iceland.
If I subtracted 50% of the information I had, I would be perfectly
prepared. Unfortunately I know just now, what fraction of all the
information I got should have never come to me. But let's go step by
step:
- From south to north or from north to south? Simple question,
difficult answer, big impact! I crossed Iceland across Sprengisandur.
This can be the most difficult part. In my case it was. In the Ted's
book is written, that wind in the Sprengisandur blows always from the
south to the north. This is not true at all!!! The rule is as follow:
During the good warm weather, the wind is blowing from to south. during
the bad cold weather, the wind is blowing from the north. So, there are 2
options: Going from the north against the wind in nice weather and with
the wind in bad weather, or going from the south with the wind in nice
weather or against the wind in bad weather. I walked from the south, all
the time was bad weather and of course all the time strong wind from the north!
Fuck!!!
- Avoid the lava desert? Yes!. Thanks Ted for the information.
:) You can be from Myvatn to Grimsstadir (close to bridge across
Jokulsa a Fjollum river) in 1 day - 41 km - so there is no reason to
try to loose your life in the lava desert.
- Is it possible to cross Dimmifjallgardur mountains?
Definitely YES. Despite the fact that there is nothing in the map and
all Icelanders will warn before it, it can be very easy. But only if you
start from or go to Vopnafjordur. There is old - very old - telegraph
line across the mountains from Vopnafjordur to Grimsstadir. Nothing
easier then go along the telegraph. There is even very nice hut (seems
to be not being used too much) within few km from the highest point on
the route. On the western side of the mountains.
- Should I trust maps? Definitely not! Whatever is written in
the Lonely planet guide about the quality of LMI maps, they are not 100%
reliable. I had with them problem in Sprengisandur. And this is actually
only place where you really need a good map. Following the information
on 1:250 000 LMI I was not able to find the right route close to
Kjalvotn. The map does not match the reality. Fortunately 1:600 000 map
confirmed my feeling, that 1:250 000 is not correct on that place.
There is also no road and hut between Grimsstadir and Vopnafjordur on the
map as I mentioned above. Otherwise it was O.K. Just I do not name such
maps as the best maps of Iceland!!!
- How long? The walking time was 14 days. But it took me 17 days
together with breaks. So doable in 2 weeks. Easy in 3 weeks.
- Is there problems with water? What a silly question :)
- Dangerous? If you have no problem to survive alone in wet and
cold weather for several days, then there are more less no problems at all.
- Anything else? If you plan to go to Myvatn, do not forget
to take very good repellent. Optimal is a mosquito net protecting the
head. I am serious.
How did I walk? I started in Reikyavik, then Thingvallavatn,
Geysir, Gullfoss, crossing Hvita river and going to the north and then
south east across Helgaskali and Holaskogur. Bridge across Pjorsa, first
bridge across Tungnaa and than again direction north. I tried to avoid new
Sprengisandur route, so I walked more on the western side of
Sprengisandur. Then Laugafell (I need some hot springs). From Laugafell
direction east till F26 and then along F26 and later directly to Myvatn.
From Myvatn to Grimsstadir and finally to Vopnafjordur. From End of July
till middle of August 2005. More less all the time raining ;)
If you found this page useful, send me an email at dodo@kanoistika.sk. If you do not have the email I appreciate also a postcard very much ;)
Jozef Ivanecky
Komenskeho 25
Kosice
040 01
Slovakia
Update 2011: Since I am getting annually 1-2 emails from people that plan to do the same, here are some additional information frequently asked:
- Re-supply during the way was possible in few places, but I did not need it. You can really take all food for 2-3 weeks with you. (Not McDonald style of course ;)).
- Maps:
- ISBN 9979-75-037-5 and ISBN 9978-75-038-3. There is also third one covering north-west. I used edition 2005/2006. I am pretty sure there will be something newer. In
the first one I found one mistake which pretty confused me in Sprengisandur. So
do not trust the map :) In that time it was the best one I could get. Because they are 1:250 000 I think no farther comment is needed :) But they can be used ;)
- ISBN 9979-3-1693-4 from 2004. That's the one where I draw the track. It is 1:600 000. So for overview it is O.K. But that's all.
(c) Dodo - May 2006/update December 2011